{"id":5146,"date":"2022-12-01T07:31:09","date_gmt":"2022-12-01T07:31:09","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/writersrebel.com\/?p=5146"},"modified":"2022-12-01T07:31:46","modified_gmt":"2022-12-01T07:31:46","slug":"utqiagvik-whale-snow","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/writersrebel.com\/utqiagvik-whale-snow\/","title":{"rendered":"UTQIAGVIK : WHALE SNOW<\/span>Doreen Cunningham<\/span>"},"content":{"rendered":"

<\/h3>\n

Latitude: 71<\/span>\u00b0<\/b> 17′ 26″ N<\/span><\/p>\n

Longitude: 156<\/span>\u00b0<\/b> 47′ 19″ W<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Big fat flakes of snow drifted past the kitchen window. I watched them fall, while stirring honey into my oatmeal.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u2018Whale snow.\u2019 Julia sighed. \u2018That\u2019s the kind of snow you get when whales are around. They\u2019re out there. Just we can\u2019t get to them.\u2019<\/span><\/p>\n

Van came in, gave me a terse nod.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u2018Is an east wind coming?\u2019 I asked him. \u2018Is the ice opening up?\u2019<\/span><\/p>\n

\u2018Just wait.\u2019 Van was holding in his own frustration at the weather. Giant blocks of ice that had broken off the northern pack during the previous summer melt had made their way to Utqia\u0121vik and were now grounded off the coast. Thick ice meant a safe platform to travel on but it would need a strong and steady east wind to push the pack offshore, to form the lead, and a current that worked with the wind to keep the lead open. The wind blew this way, that way, didn\u2019t settle for long enough. It was becoming clear that I wasn\u2019t going to be able to travel the route I\u2019d planned across northern Alaska and Canada. I\u2019d used up so much time waiting I\u2019d be lucky if I managed just one more stop. My money was disappearing fast on rent and on food from the supermarket, which was expensive because it was flown in.<\/span><\/p>\n

The hunt I was joining was one of five subsistence hunts recognised by the International Whaling Commission, which met annually and reviewed quotas every five years. To satisfy the criteria, groups needed to prove a nutritional and cultural need for whale meat, and the whale population needed to be sufficiently robust. The Arctic hunts had become a political football in power plays between the US and whaling nations such as Japan. In 2002 Tokyo orchestrated a block of the I\u00f1upiaq quota. Approval needed a three-quarters majority of the forty-eight member countries. Japan\u2019s influence was strengthened by their overseas development aid budget and the vote fell one short. The opposition included the Solomon Islands, land-locked Mongolia and several Caribbean nations.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u2018Our coastal whaling bid has been rejected for fifteen years. The United States ought to feel the same pain,\u2019 said Masayuki Komatsu from Japan\u2019s Fisheries Agency. The issue precipitated a special meeting of the IWC and Japan eventually backed down. For the I\u00f1upiat, outsiders judging the hunt could create real problems. Van said they\u2019d been criticised for adopting technologies that made the hunt safer and more efficient. The guns and bombs, snowmachines, outboard motors, the front-loader tractors for carrying whales from the beach to a butchering site that had moved inland due to coastal erosion. He had no intention of being defined by outsiders\u2019 stereotypes. As the world changed, so did hunting methods. Van as an I\u00f1upiat claimed the right, like any other human being, to choose whatever blend of tradition and modernity he wanted in his life.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u2018Expected we\u2019d all be living in igloos, did you?\u2019 said Van.<\/span><\/p>\n

He seemed suspicious of me, as well as irritated by my questions. I supposed I had no real business there, as a <\/span>tanik<\/span><\/i>, a white person, and a woman on top of that, except Julia had said I was coming and no one argued with Julia.<\/span><\/p>\n

I knew he was uncomfortable with my constant questions but I just couldn\u2019t stop. I was relentlessly curious, openly admiring, lacking in preconceptions and, ultimately, totally helpless. For a family so generous, for whom sharing was such a central part of their culture, I was impossible to turn away, even eventually for Van.<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

*<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

An inflatable globe the size of a beach ball hung from the ceiling of the lab. On yet another day of waiting, I was being given a tour of the city\u2019s climate monitoring site. My guide was Dan Endres, who\u2019d been chief of the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration Observatory for the past twenty-two years.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u2018It\u2019s interesting, it\u2019s a challenge.\u2019 Dan’s tone suggested tying a shoelace rather than overseeing a gigantic data collection operation in a place where the temperature was above freezing for only two and a half months of each year and winter was twenty-four-hour darkness. \u2018Show me where you think the atmosphere ends.\u2019<\/span><\/p>\n

\u2018There.\u2019 I held my hand out a few centimetres from the surface of the inflatable globe.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u2018No.\u2019 He slapped his hand right onto the ball. Then he exhaled on it. \u2018The moisture from my breath is thicker than the atmosphere. The entire ecosphere is thinner than a sheet of paper.\u2019 Everything Dan studied was there, all the gases, the greenhouse effect, climate, was contained there, in that nothing space he was showing me. Dan did analysis for government agencies and universities, shipped samples back and forth. When he talked about his day-to-day tasks I became lost in a cloud of chemicals and processes.<\/span><\/p>\n

F11, F12, methyl chloroform, sulphur hexafluoride, the strongest greenhouse gas known. When he started, they were measuring 4 somethings of sulphur hexafluoride and now it was up to 5.5 or 6 somethings, in just six to eight years, he said. Sulphur, man-made and from volcanoes. The tundra, was it a CO2 source or a sink?<\/span><\/p>\n

\u2018The Arctic\u2019s been called a mirror to the world. People are beginning to realise more and more just how critical it is, what\u2019s coming out of Barrow.\u2019<\/span><\/p>\n

\u2018What are you seeing?\u2019<\/span><\/p>\n

\u2018A huge increase in CO2.\u2019 The lab was one of five major sites. The others were at Mauna Loa in Hawaii, Trinidad Head in California, American Samoa and the South Pole. The lab was several rooms full of instruments humming furiously, vibrating. Pumps brought in air samples from outside. There were two employees. Teresa was the technician but it was her day off. Dan joked they split the workload fifty-fifty, he broke things and Teresa mended them.<\/span><\/p>\n

The walls were covered in the celebrity graphs of climate change.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u2018This is the most famous data ever to come out of the Arctic.\u2019 Dan pointed to the chart of CO2 levels on the wall. The line climbed steadily up the y axis as it travelled from left to right. He rattled off his observations. \u2018I\u2019ve seen CO2 levels increase almost one hundred parts per million. Temperature changes, it\u2019s lots milder. Different plants are growing outside. Spring \u2013 earlier melt by seven to ten days. Fall \u2013 the freeze is a lot later. When I first came up we could be out on the sea ice in mid-October. Now you wouldn\u2019t dare go out until November or December.\u2019 He talked about the thinning of the ice, which wasn\u2019t visible on the satellite images because they only showed the extent of cover. The longer period of sun would affect plankton chemistry, create changes in feeding habits for migratory animals like whales and seals, he said. The whales liked to pass under the ice as a protection but as it receded they\u2019d be further and further out. Any subsistence hunt would have to be further out too. There would be a danger of being trapped by storms.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u2018Is there anything else you want the world to hear?\u2019 I asked.<\/span><\/p>\n

Dan laughed.<\/span><\/p>\n

I\u2019d have liked to give him a megaphone that reached everyone on the globe. \u2018Like if you were king of the BBC?\u2019<\/span><\/p>\n

He thought for a while. \u2018Whatever happens here will happen to the rest of the world. It\u2019s the early warning bell.\u2019<\/span><\/p>\n

I remembered how fiercely I had argued in the interview for the bursary. I\u2019d pitched the Arctic as the front line of climate change and the evidence was all so clear, so incontrovertible. When Dan stopped talking, I actually felt scared. I worked for a news organisation that represented truth and accuracy. How were we not telling this story properly? What was going on?<\/span><\/p>\n

What was going on was that media all over the world had regularly been allowing sceptics to misrepresent science without adequately challenging them, and presenting them as though they carried equal scientific weight to mainstream climate researchers. Sadly, at times, the BBC was no different.<\/span><\/p>\n

An independent review of BBC science coverage four years after my trip to Utqia\u0121vik found the corporation was so determined to be impartial that it sometimes put opinion on a par with well-established fact. This \u2018insistence on bringing in dissident voices into what are in effect settled debates\u2019 created what the report called \u2018false balance\u2019. The review was led by Steve Jones, an emeritus professor at University College London. He compared it to inviting a mathematician and a maverick biologist to debate what two plus two equalled. The mathematician would say four, but with the maverick saying five, the audience would come away believing the answer was somewhere in between. Jones also noted that BBC Science was \u2018head and shoulders above other broadcasters\u2019. Clearly the media as a whole, not just the BBC, wasn\u2019t doing a good enough job. Dan could make as many thousands of measurements as he liked, could make this his life\u2019s work, but it was the media that would ultimately determine how many people ended up believing, in climate terms, that two plus two did not equal four.<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

CALL TO ACTION:<\/strong><\/p>\n

Barrow Volunteer Search & Rescue <\/span><\/a>is an organisation of volunteers who often risk their own lives looking for missing people in extreme Arctic weather conditions on the tundra and sea ice. Donation cheques made payable to Barrow Search & Rescue, Inc., can be sent to: PO Box 565, Barrow, AK 99723-0565.<\/span><\/p>\n

I\u0142isa\u0121vik College<\/a> is Alaska\u2019s first federally recognized tribal college and is unapologetically I\u00f1upiat.<\/span> The I\u00f1upiaq Studies Department develops and delivers full- and part-time programs aimed at indigenising the curriculum, incorporating the history, values, traditions, and knowledge of the I\u00f1upiat. You can learn more about the work of the college and can also donate on their website: <\/span>https:\/\/www.ilisagvik.edu\/we-are-ilisagvik\/<\/span><\/a>.<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Doreen Cunningham<\/strong> is an Irish-British writer born in Wales. After studying Engineering Doreen worked briefly in climate related research at NERC and in storm modelling at Newcastle University, before turning to journalism. She worked for the BBC World Service variously as an international news presenter, editor, producer and reporter, for twenty years. She won the RSL Giles St Aubyn Award 2020 and was shortlisted for the Eccles Centre & Hay Festival Writers Award 2021 and longlisted for the Wainwright prize for\u00a0Soundings<\/em>,\u00a0her first book.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Latitude: 71\u00b0 17′ 26″ N Longitude: 156\u00b0 47′ 19″ W   Big fat flakes of snow drifted past the kitchen window. I watched them fall, while stirring honey into my oatmeal. \u2018Whale snow.\u2019 Julia sighed. \u2018That\u2019s the kind of snow you get when whales are around. They\u2019re out there. Just we can\u2019t get to them.\u2019 […]<\/p>\n

Read More… from UTQIAGVIK : WHALE SNOW<\/span>Doreen Cunningham<\/span><\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":17,"featured_media":5149,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[4,1],"tags":[1004,714,483,1001,35,194,1003,1002,193,163,1006,1005],"yoast_head":"\nUTQIAGVIK : WHALE SNOW - Writers Rebel<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"What is it like to document the upstream ripples of climate change in the Arctic Circle? 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